Art, Jr. writes a question and answer column for the Flair section of the Richmond Times-Dispatch. His column appears on various Saturdays during the year. Use the email link above to send him your questions. The three best questions will be answered here and in the next installment in Flair. Click here for the archives.

Flair Column, July, 2006

Question:

I received an orchid from a florist recently and there was moss on top of the soaking wet potting medium. Should I repot it so it will dry out? Rebecca R.

Answer:

Moss is a commonly used topping for orchids these days and comes in two flavors – Spanish and Sheet.

Spanish moss is the gray string-like fiber that is found hanging on the branches of old trees in the southern United States. It adds a finished look to floral designs and is applied by placing a handful on top of the plant and spreading it around. It is sold two ways – living and dried.

Sheet moss is flat and looks like a fine green carpet when laid on the surface of the potting media. It is usually soaked in water for a short time prior to use which rejuvenates the tiny plantlets. Sheet moss can also be glued to the sides of pot to give the illusion of a living container.

While attractive, both mosses have the potential to cause trouble for the unsuspecting plant underneath. Your case illustrates the biggest danger in using a moss topping. Water can get trapped underneath causing orchid roots to rot off and die. Another risk is that new pseudo-bulbs cannot push their way through the moss and get smothered. At the very least, the use of either moss prevents the grower from visually inspecting the surface of the plant’s media.

Spanish moss and sheet moss are both very popular in the florist industry and can be applied successfully on orchid plants if used sparingly and if the grower can periodically inspect underneath. If the media is ever found to be soaking wet, remove the moss and don’t water the plant until it dries out.

Question:

After much arguing and debating, I finally won and my orchid has given me the most gracious of eight flowers. Should I worry about the white mold on the outside of the pot? Judith A.

Answer:

Orchid growing is a cooperative arrangement between grower and plant such that both parties win. There should not be any strife 

The care giver should know the cultural requirements of the plant – light, temperature, watering schedule, etc, be able to spot early signs of distress, and make necessary corrections. In return, the plant should thrive – robust green leaves, strong healthy roots, and frequent blooming. Anything less begs for improvement with perfection always being the goal.

Question:

My husband bought me a beautiful Phalaenopsis for my birthday. The instructions say ‘no direct sunlight, only filtered’. What exactly is ‘
filtered sunlight’ and where should I put it? Nicole K.

Answer:

One of the most important aspects of orchid growing is getting the light levels correct – not to dark and not too light – for each of the various genera. Since few, if any, orchids can take full blistering sun, there are really only two levels of light intensity worth remembering: intermediate and low.

Intermediate light is commonly referred to as ‘filtered sunlight’ because the direct rays of the sun are filtered before they arrive at the plant. Orchids that like intermediate light are cattleyas, dendrobiums, and oncidiums. First, start with direct sun. In a house, this ideally would be a south facing window that is not obstructed by trees. If not available, the next best exposures would be east or west where the sun shines directly about half the day.

From there, direct sunlight has to be filtered and this usually takes place in front of the window using either a sheer curtain or partially turned blinds. An easy way to tell if intermediate light is present is to touch the leaves of the plant after 15 minutes of exposure and, if warm, there is too much sun. Increase the filtering as needed.

Achieving intermediate light outside the home is a little more challenging. One technique that has been used successfully when dealing with a small number of plants is to simply hang them from partially shaded trees using metal S-shaped hangers. For larger collections, erecting wooden slats over a plant table works well.

© The Baldwin Image 2003