Question:
My husband left a tray of orchids in his car on a hot sunny day this summer and the leaves are still black. Is there any hope of recovery? Heather W.
Answer:
Always be on the lookout for shady parking places while transporting orchids! Orchids are tough plants. In the wild, they can survive for weeks without water and live through hurricane force winds. Their foliage is thick and fleshy such that most insects would rather dine elsewhere. A cold snap near freezing only nips the robust leaves. But a few hours in a hot car might be the end. This embarrassing situation is all too common these days, now that orchids are the #1 houseplant and are being transported from stores to homes at an ever increasing rate. An unsuspecting driver may have many errands during the day and if care is not taken to ‘park in the shade’, there may be an unpleasant surprise waiting. The best treatment for ‘blackened orchid’, is to give the burn victims indirect light while maintaining a low stress environment – Thorough watering as the media approaches dryness, moderate humidity, and moderate temperatures. If there is any life remaining, a new leaf or root should emerge in 3-6 months. Continue treatment for another 1-2 years while the plants return to normal size (or the husband returns from the doghouse.)
Question:
I have had great luck with two Phalaenopsis that I recently purchased. Plant #1 is potted in moss and Plant #2 is potted in dirt. The last petals fell off and I trimmed the stems down. Should I repot them? I’m still new at this! Carol K.
Answer:
Repotting moth orchids is recommended immediately after blooming so that new roots can grow and get established in time for the next flowering season. When multiple plants are involved, the key is to use the same potting technique and medium for all. The watering schedule then becomes uniform. Phals are sold in different medias depending on the preference of the commercial grower. Common ingredients include sphagnum moss, peat moss, and fir bark - used alone or in combination. Fresh sphagnum is sponge-like and holds the most moisture. Dry peat moss has uniform consistency and is easiest to work with. Bark is airy and drains water quickly. 'Dirt' is never used because it suffocates the roots of epiphytic orchids. Sometimes wet peat moss gives the appearance of dirt but, rest assured, there is no dirt in any Phalaenopsis media. We have found, through trial and error, that sphagnum moss grows the best phals in clay pot sizes 2" and 3" while peat moss works best in sizes 4", 5", and 6". Always determine pot size after inspecting the root systems and choosing the smallest pot that fits.
Question:
Almost 2 years ago, an insurance salesman visited my workplace and gave orchids to everyone. Mine is still in bloom! Is this normal? Ivelys I.
Answer:
First, check to make sure that this isn't a silk orchid! Today's replicas look dangerously close to the real thing and can fool a novice. (It would be embarrassing to have watered a fake plant for two years.) It is practically unheard of for any orchid to stay in bloom continuously for two years. Even professional growers who have pedigree 'stud' collections rarely make such a claim. Perhaps you have the perfect environment or an extremely green thumb. Or the stars are aligned. Whatever the case, don't change a thing!